Water in fuel is the most common form of contamination, condensation from temperature swings, leaks past a faulty seal, or a dodgy load from the bowser. Diesel that's sat for months grows microbial sludge. Dirt and rust come out of old steel tanks. All of it gets pulled into the fuel system and ends up in the very components designed to atomise clean fuel, not push grit through fine nozzles.
Symptoms are usually rough idle, hesitation under load, hard starting, black smoke, or a check engine light pointing at fuel trim. The right move is to stop driving on it. The longer the contaminated fuel circulates, the more parts get fouled, injectors first, then the high pressure pump. We diagnose what kind of contamination you have, drain it cleanly, flush the lines and refill with fresh fuel.
We come to you wherever the car is, at home, at work, on the roadside or at a workshop yard. A qualified technician samples the fuel, identifies the contamination, drains the tank, flushes the system and refills cleanly. Old fuel is disposed of legally. You drive away with fresh fuel in the tank and a service report in your email.
A quick word on ethanol blends. E10 is fine in most petrol cars sold in Australia since the mid 2000s, check the fuel flap or handbook if you are not sure. E85 is a different story, it is mostly ethanol and only flex fuel vehicles are built for it. A tank of E85 in a regular petrol car runs terribly and needs draining, the same job as any other wrong fuel.
Water in diesel is the other one we see every month. It gets in through condensation, tired seals and the odd bad batch, and it shows up as surging, hard starting and a motor that dies at idle. Water sinks below the diesel and sits right where the pickup draws from, which is why it bites so quickly. We drain the lot, flush the system and refuel with clean diesel.
For heavier cases we go to full tank drainage for water, dirt, or mixed fuel, a full pump out rather than a polish.